Day 30 and 31 – A Good Rest
It is good to rest! Lake City is a great little mountain town of about 600 residents, 200 or so are Texans who only live there in the summer. Nonetheless, they have cute little cabins, a grumpy motel owner, a strong culture of punctuality… Don’t try and get food 6 minutes after the place closes, they’re spot in like that…
The best parts of the town that I liked was the hostel, and all the historical placards around town. It has some great history, I loved it. Sorry no pictures though.
One side story of note, my final night in the town involved going to the Packer Saloon (Alfred Packer was the only convicted cannibal and that happen in Lake City! Haha). I met a guy, Jaymie, who was uni-cycling the Colorado Trail! He needed a ride to the trailhead in the morning and a wonderful young lady lent us her Subaru! I got both Jaymie and ‘Spin Cycle’ another CT hiker to the trailhead. Best of luck to them both.
A big shout of thanks goes out to Paul O. from Redlands Mesa (Grand Junction ish). He provided me with additional warm goods, fuel, and the best food a backpacking guy can hope for!
Thank you so much Paul!!!
Day 32 – Nearo
As a near-o day, Paul and I cruised town and around 4 pm I got to the trail. A hug, a hand off of cigars and I was out the door. I planned on hiking 2.6 miles in, but I felt great and kept going. I wound up hiking about 6 miles before calling it quits. Made for a short day, but Paul’s visit and shuttle to the trail head made it another amazingly great day.
Day 33 – Good Food
Eating like a king, putting in the miles, and I feel great! Day 33 started pretty cold, but I never get out of the tent before 7:30 am anyways. The rule still stands, if there is frost on the tent, stay in the sleeping bag! The day was almost void of all people. The only ones I saw were in off road vehicles towards the bottom of the mountain. As I travel deeper into these final segments of the trail, I found myself paying more attention to altitude and water supply rather than mileage. My body is finally fit enough to handle more mileage. Last night’s camping choice placed me at a point where today’s highest point (also the highest of the CT) where I could stop at 13,271 around lunch. Also, I had cell phone service up there, so I played on Facebook and sent out this picture:
Other than the highest point of the trail, this section of the hike was just a, keep going type section. Oh… and the views were still great! Oh wait, by great I mean epic! (as I sit here typing up my journal and look through my pictures, I am amazed by the scale, beauty, clarity, and pictures just don’t work! everyone needs to hike the CT!!!)
I didn’t write much for this post, but, look at the pictures!
I hiked up until I found a good spot and I was blessed with a spot by Cataract Lake.
It made for a cold night to sleep next to this, but look at this awesome spot!
Day 34 – Big ol’ Cairns
Yes, it was a cold night. No, I did not sleep well as I felt like I was being surrounded by Coyotes. I woke up to ice all over my tent, but it was worth it. This lake was perfect! It was worth it!!! This section of the trail had mountains, hidden colors, and lots of sun.
I will say this, the trail crews can make great cairns!
So amazing
Now here is where I will split this post. Stony Pass and the trail were amazing, but there’s a twist here.
Day 34 and 35 – I was Meant to be on the Trail
Here is where my story changed a bit from previous days. While hiking through towards where I planned on camping, I came across two high-altitude ponds (one pictured above), but at the ponds I met P2P.
P2P is a 57 year old hiking fanatic! She’s hiked most of the Colorado highest 100, hiked in Nepal, Arctic, Alaska, and ALL over the place! Well, I walked up to her camping site and she was laying on her side. I approached camp expecting some friendly chatter before heading another 3 or so miles further down the trail to camp closer to Eldorado Lake or Kite Lake. This encounter was different as she wasn’t able to get up. She stayed laying on her side even as I started talking to her. I don’t have a timeline or flight to catch, so when she invited me to camp with her, the answer was yes. Don’t get me wrong. I love the isolation of the trail, but when camping, it is nice to change the pace and have someone to tell stories with. We got to talking and we’re both so social we were chatting away until dark.
Turns out that through all her travels, hikes, climbs, sailing, canoeing, and mountain biking, she had the worst of luck about two years ago. Two years ago, while in her front yard, she was struck by lightning! In her front yard! She had a bad concussion and this segment, 24, Stony Pass to Molas Pass was her first solo hike since that event. Her plan was to hike about 11.6 miles from Stony pass over 2 days to meet up with a climbing guide at a beaver pond. From the beaver pond they would go hit some backcountry trails and approach/climb Arrow and Vestal Peaks, but do it with someone familiar with the area.
Well, P2P was still on her side and moving pretty slowly. She had tweaked her knee in the first 5 miles of this segment and needed to make camp early. I agreed to stick around in the morning to make sure she was alright. She downed a muscle relaxant and we went to our separate tents.
The start of day 35 started as any other. I started doing cold breakfasts and lunches, so I pack up quickly in the mornings. MacGyver and LiteBrite, two Continental Divide Trail hikers I met in Lake City, came by while P2P was still packing up. We discussed the trail and they had been through the area P2P and I were about to hike, so we discussed what to expect.
I helped P2P get her pack on around 10:00 am and we hit the trail. P2P and I were talking before heading out, and I agreed to hike with her for the day to make sure things would be alright.
We didn’t move fast as her knee was pretty bad.
The pace allowed me to take pictures so it didn’t bother me at all. Like I said, I am on no timeline.
We approached a section of the trail known for its switchbacks. I heard from someone that there is over 100 switchbacks within one mile, as the bird flies.
As we started the switchbacks, we traded cameras for “action shots”
So now people are wondering why I pointed this out. Well, P2P was moving slowly as I had mentioned. Her knee didn’t get better overnight and on one of the switchbacks, she slid on the gravel and went down. I dropped my backpack and went back up to her to help her get up. She sucked up her pride and asked me to carry her backpack for a bit. I was just about to suggest the same. I carried her bag down a number of switchbacks and went back up for my bag. We met at the bags and we decided to do it again.
I hiked her bag a few times like this. Went down a dozen switchbacks, then got mine, got the bags to a mining shed, then to treeline.
I got her bag into treeline and took a moment to rest. It was about 3:30 pm.
I could tell what she was about to say was going to be tough. She started out with “Well, I hate to ask this” type of statement. Before she could even say anything, I offered to carry her bag all the way to the beaver pond another 4 miles and about 2,000 feet of elevation drop. With my speed, I figured I could get her and her bag to the pond around 5:30 pm and get back to my bag around dark.
When I said I would take her bag to her camping spot, she hugged me and cried on my shoulder. This had to be the toughest thing in the world for her. To go from where she was, to lightning strike, to asking a random hiker for help, well, I knew I would have a tough time if I was in her position.
We rested and talked for a little time there and she re-composed herself before getting a head start down the trail.
Even though I hiked a very tough portion of the Colorado Trail three times, it was still one of the best segments of the entire trail!
I honestly got a little lost looking for the pond and added about a half mile backtracking/searching, but I made sure P2P got to camp, had water, and was set. I had my treking poles, borrowed her headlamp, and filled my 16oz water bottle and started uphill to my bag.
I wasn’t too far off with my estimate, I knew I would get to my backpack at dark, but what I didn’t let anyone know is that I was out of water (well, I did re-fill my 16oz bottle when I met up with a group of 4 hikers). Without water, I didn’t have anything to make my dinner with, but I kept going. I was able to hike the ~1 mile to the nearest camping spot in the trees. I decided not to attempt to get water, or attempt to get farthur into the trees; it was just too dark and not worth the risk.
For dinner, I ate trailmix, mini-snickers bars, and two tablespoons of Nutella. Drank the last ounce of water and fell asleep like a baby.
Day 36 – Squirrely Alarm Clocks
Don’t worry about an alarm clock, the squirrels will let you know when you’ve slept long enough…
Yeah, so I did well helping P2P. My energy levels stayed high enough to complete the task, but the morning of day 36 (September 14) was a bit of a sore one. I ate a cold breakfast, packed up, and hiked down to see how P2P was holding up. While hiking down the trail, I came up to… MORE MOOSE!!!
I am glad for my zoom when I took these pictures, there are actually three moose in this little area and one was a calf (still horse sized…). While taking pictures, I saw a young hiker with her head down about to turn a corner and run right into the calf. So I carefully hiked quickly to intercept her to warn her of the moose. She was excited, but when I mentioned the closest one was only 20 yards away she was like “whoa, I never would have seen it”. Yeah, hike with your eyes open and your head up, that’s where the cool stuff is! Anyways, she stayed safe, took pictures, and I went on my way to visit with P2P.
P2P was bummed about her knee, but she had a beautiful camping spot. She thanked me a number of times and I continued to hike. I was excited to get to Silverton!
Day 37 – Silverton
Silverton is a cute little, itty bitty, tourist town. The hostel is great! I rested up, looked at the authentic train, and slept a lot.
Oh and it rained a lot, so my choice of rest day was great.
Day 38 – Weather be Good
It looks like rain… I better hike 21 miles…
The weather was not too hot, not too cold. The sun was missing, but it never rained. What a day to be on the trail!
Segment 25 covered just less than 21 miles with 3,799 feet up and 3,578 feet down for elevation changes and everything felt good. The trail was exciting and beautiful… So as I sit at the computer right now, looking at the photos, I know why I didn’t journal anything, I was too busy walking, sight seeing, and taking pictures!
Oh yeah, not much was said this day. Oh well, I knew it would happen eventually.
Day 39 – I’m Good with Water
Strategery
I have finally faced a section that a different consideration was added to the plans. Late in the CT, there is a segment where water is scarce. By scarce, I mean 22 miles between water fill-ups. While in Silverton, I purchased a 1-liter bottle of Dr. Pepper to bring my max water supply to three liters. While hiking I found a discarded water bottle, so I figured I would carry 3.75 liters of water for this 22 mile stretch.
This segment had a lot of hunters in it, but that didn’t change the trail. The trail was a forest walk with spectacular views. The smell of pine was crisp and the colors amazing. I love it when the weather and the forest bless me like this!
I carried far too much water, so the night before, I ate double dinners, this morning, hot drinks, and I still had plenty of water to get me to Taylor Lake.
I didn’t need water, so I kept going!
Day 40 – The Beauty Surround
Though day 41 will be the final day, day 40 was a day of appreciation as I looked at the beauty all around me. The crisp air, the trees, the mountains, and the isolation will all be missed. I, like many others on the trail, have found that I can be at peace with myself and can do well without others around me constantly. I can rely on my decisions and can logically work through problems. I think this trail has also helped me to put certain problems into a perspective that’s appropriate. I know that sounds like I am trying to compare decisions like, where to camp, get water, and how many miles/altitude to deal with are nothing compared to what is experienced in the workforce, but still. I believe this trail is what I needed at this point in my life and on this day, I knew I am a better person coming out than I was going in.
A word from the wise, be careful on talus and loose rocks.
Day 41 – The End
Ya know what I won’t miss? Ice and frost ALL over my tent and anything I left in my vestibule.
The final night slept like any other night, but I was feeling the excitement of the trail hit my system as I packed up my FREEZING things. My camping choice was a lower altitude camp near water. I think my camp was at about 8,522 feet above sea level. After camping at 12,200, 12,500, or 12,800 you would think that the camping at 8,500 would be nice and warm! Heck no, my final night had the most ice I’ve had on the entire trail! Good thing it was my final night. I stayed dry and plenty warm, but packing a wet and frozen tent is not fun.
I didn’t take many pictures on my final segment. I was in the hiking zone. The last miles of the trail was filled with people, but I was the only thru hiker many folks had seen so they constantly stopped to talk. Which was great, but I kept feeling like a broken record.
There was a false summit though…
I don’t know why this signage exists, but randomly on the trail is this trailhead marker. Only gravel and dirt leading to it. I am assuming a road is near this sign, but this was not the terminus of the trail.
BAM
There it is!
I lived through the trail!
I cannot tell you how happy I was to do this trail and how many memories I will be taking from the trail. The people were amazing, the weather… well, that could have been better, but it was a spectacular experience!
At this point, I need to decide what to do next, but first, beer, meet up with P2P, and then catch a ride with Paul to Grand Junction. I will miss you CT!